by Christopher Reckling

Before jumping on the organic bandwagon, high-volume bakers must examine organic ingredients and their influence on production lines and formulations.

Recent consumer data shows that foods stamped organic are increasing their market share.  In 2003, the U.S. organic food industry is estimated to reach annual sales of $13.5 billion, and is projected to each $20 billion in 2005, according to the Organic Trade Association.

If these dollar amounts look enticing, organic-ingredient manufacturers caution that producing organic bakery foods is not an overnight decision.

"Bakers need to get into organic baking carefully, and look for guidance from a supplier,"  Dennis Singsank, American Health and Nutrition Inc.'s president and director of sales, says.  "It's crucial to plan way in advance, and don't expect to put a product out on the market three months from now because the growing end needs one year of planning."

Maintaining a successful organic business requires long-term planning.  Mark Retzloff, president and chief executive officer of Rudi's Organic Bakery LLC, works with suppliers one to two years in advance to satiate the bakery's organic supply needs.  Even though demands for ingredients like organic wheat are growing, the number of organic farmers is limited compared to conventional wheat farming.  Organic farming represents 1% to 2% of the total conventional food production, and about 70% of organic crops are grown under contract, according to Tracy Mattingly, Wild Flavors Inc.'s color technology manager.

Citing the 20% growth in demand for organic bakery foods in the last 10 years, farmers can switch from conventional farming practices to organic farming, according to Brian Leahy, California Certified Organic Farmers Inc.'s president.  However, three years must pass before farmers can be certified as organic.

Long-term planning also hinders any supply shortages that cannot be adjusted for in the short term.  In order to satisfy bakers' request for organic ingredients,. suppliers have to search for organic-certified farmers.  Because pesticides and herbicides are forbidden, organic farmers must cultivate two to three times a year to maintain a healthy crop.  Because of these extra steps, organic ingredients, such a wheat, tend to cost twice as much a conventionally grown wheat.  Organic crops also are more susceptible to insect swarms and harsh weather conditions, which can cause price increases.  For example, the price of US and Canadian organic  flaxseed has gone up 50% in the last two years due to foraging grasshoppers and drought, according to Singsank.

"If conventional farmers see a swarm of grasshoppers coming, they go out and spray a bunch of chemicals," Singsank says.  "Organic farmers can't do that.  You have to sit out on the front porch and watch the grasshoppers eat the crop."

Organic ingredients also cost more because farmers continually get their farming techniques evaluated.  Farmers are charged yearly fees in order to be re-certified as organic farmers.

Organic Conditioning

The certification process does not end on the farmer's field. A baker's product line and baking process also must be certified before attaining the organic label.  In order to make organic dough ready for the production line and stay in check with certification, bakers cannot use conventional dough-improving methods.  During the formulation process, organic dough cannot use unnatural dough conditioners or modified food starches.  Unmodified food starch and unbleached lecithin are permitted in organic bakery foods, and eggs serve as an ideal emulsifier, Mattingly says.  Synthetic preservatives, which extend shelf life also cannot be used to improve shelf life.

"Organic is much like going back to the way grandma made it in the kitchen," Mattingly says.  "A lot of the technology that is based on non-natural ingredients just cannot be used."

Organic Production

Because conventional dough conditioners are prohibited, organic bakery foods have less tolerance to machines.  However, organic flour mixes the same as conventional flour.

Before contemplating what goes into the mixer, organic bakers suggest looking at the protein content of their organic flour.  Low-quality organic flour can affect taste, warns Beth Holland, Beckmann's Old World Bakery Ltd.'s general manager.  In order to produce the best organic bakery food, several organic bakers suggest using organic flour with a high-protein content.  High-protein content flour has more whole grains in it, which consumers perceive  as better tasting, Holland says.

Organic flour also is available with added gluten. Bakers can add more gluten into the dough, but additional costs may become excessive. Beckmann's Old World Bakery adds gluten to give its dough an added buffer zone as it travels along the production line.  However, if bakers are worried about damaging organic dough on the production line, Retzloff suggests using a one-point lower protein content flour, which improves gluten strength.

Further down the production line, the divider and slicer need different lubricants than standard baking equipment. When producing non-organic bakery foods the divider and slicer can use mineral oil as a lubricant.  However, mineral oil cannot be certified organic. As an alternative, bakers can use organic sunflower oil to lubricate dividers and slicers.

"Sunflower oil is a better lubricant," Retzloff says. "It costs a little bit more, but to our surprise we use less of it than other lubricants. It lubricates better."

Once the organic bakery food  leaves the production plant, its up to the consumer to buy the product. If the high-volume baker does not have a market niche for organic products, they should develop one, according to Holland.  Following nature's model of growth bakers should develop a long-term plan to thwart any organic ingredient supply issues.